Source: "The Easiest No-Waste Hay Feeder We've Ever Built" — the primary build reference for this guide.
At a Glance
| Factor | Details |
|---|---|
| Build Time | 2–4 hours (one person, single afternoon) |
| Material Cost | $0 using salvaged pallets and scrap lumber · $15–$30 if purchasing screws and partial lumber |
| Skill Level | Beginner — basic drill and saw operation only |
| Hay Waste Reduction | 30–50% vs. open ground feeding |
| Payback Period | 2–4 weeks in hay savings on a typical small herd |
| Suitable For | Goats, sheep, horses, small cattle |
| Bale Types | Square bales (1–1.5 bales capacity); adaptable for round bales |
| Service Life | Pallet face: 2–4 years · Lumber frame: 5–15 years depending on treatment |
A 6-goat herd consuming 3 bales/week at $8/bale wastes roughly $500/year with open feeding (40% waste). A feeder costing $0–$30 reduces that to ~$62/year (5% waste). Net annual saving: ~$440. Payback period: 1–2 weeks of hay saved. For 3 horses on round bales, savings can exceed $1,000/year.
Why Hay Waste Is a Real Cost
Without a controlled feeder, livestock waste 30–60% of every bale through selective pulling, ground refusal, trampling, and weather exposure. Goats refuse to eat hay that has touched the ground, stepped on, or been near manure. Horses toss hay while eating and ingest sand with ground-level hay, causing colic. Even one night of rain can destroy an entire bale before morning.
Beyond the financial cost, ground-fed hay increases parasite load in sheep and goats, mycotoxin exposure from molding, and respiratory issues from dusty hay disturbed underfoot. The nutritional loss compounds the problem — the leaves of hay (highest in protein and vitamins) break off first and fall to the ground, leaving stalk-heavy material for the animal.
| Scenario | Hay Cost/Bale | Bales/Week | Waste % | Annual Waste $ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6 goats, open feeding | $8 | 3 | 40% | ~$500 |
| 6 goats, with feeder | $8 | 3 | ~5% | ~$62 |
| 3 horses, open round bale | $55 | 1/week | 50–75% | $1,430–$2,145 |
| 3 horses, covered feeder | $55 | 1/week | ~10% | ~$286 |
| 5 cattle, bunk feeding | $12 | 5 | 30% | ~$936 |
Core Design Principles
Slat Spacing — The Critical Measurement
| Animal | Slat Spacing | Feeder Height | Min Positions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nigerian Dwarf Goats | 3.5″ – 4″ | 12–18″ | n+1 rule | Anti-climb top rail essential |
| Standard Goats (dairy/meat) | 4″ – 5″ | 18–24″ | n+1 rule | Check horned breeds carefully |
| Sheep (medium breeds) | 4″ – 5″ | 20–26″ | n+1 rule | Separate lamb access area |
| Horses | 5″ – 7″ | 24–36″ | 1 per horse | Feed at nose height, not above shoulder |
| Small Cattle | 6″ – 8″ | 30–40″ | 1 per head | 4×4 frame required; heavier construction |
| The n+1 rule: provide one more feeding position than animals in the group. Boss animals will guard positions — one extra position prevents complete exclusion of submissive animals. | ||||
What You Need
Tools Required
- Cordless drill/driver (18V minimum)
- Circular saw or reciprocating saw
- Hammer
- Pallet buster / pry bar
- Tape measure and level
- Safety glasses and work gloves
- Post-hole digger or driver
- Wire cutters / bolt cutters (if using livestock panel)
- Metal file or angle grinder (deburr cut wire ends)
- T-posts and wire for anchoring
Step-by-Step Build
This sequence is for the standard pallet-based wall-mounted or freestanding feeder — the most accessible design for first-time builders.
Measure your installation space and record your animal's shoulder height — the bottom of the hay opening should sit at nose height or just above. For goats: 18–24″ off the ground. Sheep: 20–26″. Horses: 24–36″.
Select pallets with slat spacing appropriate for your animals. Test by measuring a gap — the animal's muzzle should reach in comfortably without allowing a full flake pull. Inspect every pallet for broken boards, exposed nails, MB stamps, or structural weakness. Reject any that fail.
Plan feeder width: a single pallet (48″) handles 4–6 goats or sheep simultaneously. For larger herds, build two separate feeders rather than one long feeder — dominant animals can block access to the entire face of a single long feeder.
Lay the feed-face pallet flat. If slat spacing is already correct for your animals, skip to step 3. If too narrow, use a hammer or reciprocating saw to remove every other slat — this doubles the gap. Re-measure and test.
If too wide, add slats between existing ones using 1×2″ or 1×3″ lumber screwed in, or staple a section of livestock panel behind the pallet face to create the correct effective opening.
Sand or plane all rough-cut slat edges. Goats and sheep rest their muzzles on slats while eating — splinters in this location cause sores and discourage feeder use. Hammer flat every exposed nail on the inside face of the pallet.
Cut four 2×4 uprights to your desired feeder height (36–48″ total). These form the corners of the frame.
Wall-mounted: Attach two uprights vertically to the barn wall or fence post using 3″ exterior screws into studs, spaced 47–48″ apart (matching pallet width). Verify plumb with a level.
Freestanding: Drive or dig in two 4×4 posts 48″ apart and at least 18″ deep. Posts must be completely solid — livestock push against this feeder with significant daily force.
Cut two horizontal 2×4 rails connecting the uprights at the top and bottom of the hay compartment opening. Cut two side pieces from 2×4 or plywood to form the sidewalls — 12–18″ deep is standard for square bale feeders.
Position the modified pallet against the front of the frame. Screw the pallet to the uprights using at least 6 screws per side — 3″ screws biting into both the pallet stringer and the 2×4 upright. This connection takes enormous stress; do not under-fasten.
Add cross-bracing from the top corners of the pallet face back to the wall or rear structure using 2×4 sections. This prevents the face from racking forward under animal pressure.
Shake the assembled feeder front firmly. It must feel completely solid. Any movement at this stage compounds into a structural failure within weeks of use. Add screws wherever movement is detected before proceeding.
Cut 3/4″ plywood to the full feeder width × 12″ forward depth. This shelf catches falling hay wisps, seeds, and chaff, preventing ground contact and allowing recovery of fine material.
Attach to the bottom of the feeder frame by screwing into a horizontal 2×4 ledger attached to the uprights. Drill four 3/4″ drainage holes in the corners for outdoor installations.
For the cleanest design: add a second pallet horizontally below the catch tray as a raised floor platform, further elevating everything and improving drainage around the feeder base.
Extend the corner uprights 12–18″ above the top of the hay compartment opening. Attach a horizontal ridge board across the top. Screw one or two corrugated metal roofing panels to the ridge and any intermediate supports, creating a simple lean-to roof.
Slope the roof at least 2–3″ of pitch so rain runs off rather than pooling. Ensure the low end drains away from the hay compartment.
Wall-mounted: Secure the back of the frame to the wall using lag screws into studs or heavy-duty L-brackets. The feeder must not tip forward — this is a critical safety requirement.
Freestanding: Confirm posts are completely solid. Add T-posts on each side connected to the frame with heavy wire or chain to prevent sideways tipping.
Before first use: run a bare hand along every surface the animal will contact. If it catches on your skin, fix it. Test every opening for head entrapment with your fist. Load a bale and observe the first full feeding session from start to finish.
Using an IBC Tote as the Feeder Base
The IBC tote itself — both the HDPE plastic shell and the galvanized steel cage — can serve as the structural base for a hay feeder rather than building a separate 2×4 frame. This approach works well for medium to large herds because IBC totes are inherently sturdy, weather-resistant, and often free or low-cost on Craigslist.
How to Use the IBC Tote Frame
The cage provides built-in anchor points, corner rigidity, and a ready-made framework for attaching feed face pallets or livestock panels. The plastic shell can be removed entirely, leaving the steel cage as a robust structural skeleton — or the lower portion of the shell can be cut away and the cage used as the outer frame with pallets attached to the front face.
For the IBC-tote-as-body approach: the tote cage is cut to the desired feeder height (typically 36–48″), the plastic shell is removed from three sides, and the remaining front-face opening is fitted with pallets or livestock panel at the correct slat spacing. The cage base elevates the hay compartment off the ground naturally. The steel tube structure eliminates the need for separate 4×4 anchor posts.
Where to Source Free IBC Totes for This Build
Used IBC totes are frequently available for free or $20–$50 on Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace from food manufacturers, chemical processors, and industrial operations that can no longer resell them commercially. For a hay feeder, food-grade totes are ideal — they're safe for livestock contact and free of chemical residues.
Search "IBC tote free" or "IBC tote $20" in your area. Availability varies but is consistent in most regions with food processing or agricultural industries nearby.
Species-Specific Notes
- Will climb into any accessible feeder — top rail anti-climb board is essential
- Refuse hay that touches the ground, near manure, or is wet
- Goats will chew wood; add PVC or metal edging to extend life
- Nigerian Dwarves need the narrower end of spacing (3.5″)
- Young kids need separate consideration — adult spacing can trap their heads
- n+1 feeding positions; boss does guard aggressively
- More passive than goats; less destructive to feeder structures
- Woolly breeds need slightly wider openings than wool-free at same body size
- More susceptible to respiratory issues — reduce dusty ground hay
- Lambs need separate smaller feeder or creep access area
- Share the ground-refusal behavior with goats once hay is soiled
- Feed at or near nose height — elevated feeders stress poll and neck
- Sand colic: don't place feeders in sandy areas; horses eat last wisps off ground
- Head-tossing is strong; feed face must be solid enough to withstand it
- Slow feeder nets work well for horses prone to digestive issues or laminitis
- 4–6 horses: a single large round bale feeder is more efficient than multiple small ones
- 6–8″ slat spacing; cows need to insert muzzle deeper than smaller livestock
- 4×4 lumber frame throughout — cattle exert far more force than goats/sheep
- A bunk-style catch tray below the rack reduces waste; cows will eat fallen material
- Outdoors: hay ring with roof is most practical for round bales
Alternative No-Waste Designs
| Design | Best For | Build Time | Waste Reduction |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pallet wall feeder (this guide) | Goats, sheep, small herds | 2–4 hrs | 30–50% |
| V-shape pallet feeder | 4–8 animals, no frame needed | 1–2 hrs | 25–40% |
| IBC tote body feeder | Medium–large herds, free totes available | 3–5 hrs | 30–50% |
| Cattle panel corner feeder | Goats, quick temporary setup | 15 min | 15–25% |
| Keyhole/head-in feeder | Maximum waste reduction (up to 40% better than slats) | 4–6 hrs | 40–60% |
| Slow feed net frame | Horses prone to colic or obesity | 2–3 hrs | 30%+ |
| Covered round bale feeder | Horses, cattle, 5–15 animals | 2–3 hrs | 40–65% |
| Round bale feeders for goats and small ruminants: use an enclosed design that prevents animals from climbing onto or inside the bale as it hollows. Multiple livestock deaths have been documented from goats trapped in collapsing round bales. | |||
Safety Checklist
- All exposed nails hammered flat — none protruding on the interior
- All cut lumber edges sanded smooth
- All cut wire ends filed or ground (if using livestock panel)
- Feeder does not rock or shift when pushed firmly from any direction
- Wall-mounted: lag screws into studs; test by hanging body weight on structure
- Freestanding: posts cannot tip; lateral anchoring in place for outdoor
- No sharp metal at animal head/eye level
- No opening allows head in but not back out — test every gap with your fist
- No opening allows a hoof to become trapped — check bottom corners
- Young animals (kids, lambs) assessed separately — adults-safe ≠ kids-safe
- All pallets stamped HT — no MB pallets anywhere in structure
- No painted wood in contact surfaces (old paint may contain lead)
- No pressure-treated lumber in direct hay contact
- All bale twine removed and disposed before first bale is loaded
Maintenance Schedule
| Frequency | Tasks | Time |
|---|---|---|
| After every feeding | Remove and dispose of all bale twine; check catch tray level | 2–3 min |
| Every 1–2 days | Sweep/rake the hay catch tray; check for structural movement | 5 min |
| Weekly | Inspect all structural connections; check for animal chewing damage; tighten loose fasteners | 10 min |
| Monthly | Full structural inspection; check for wood rot; assess roof condition; replace chewed boards | 20 min |
| Seasonally | Replace rotted boards; re-treat cut lumber ends; check roof fasteners | 1–2 hrs |
| Pallet face: 2–4 year service life. 2×4 frame (untreated): 3–5 years outdoors. Pressure-treated frame: 10–15+ years. Livestock panel face: 10–20 years. Corrugated metal roof: 15–25 years. | ||